Opéra Garnier

Well, this post has taken several visits to put together, and I'm happy to say that Tuesday night I put the finishing touches on some photos and experiences.  

On the balcony outside overlooking Place de l'Opéra.

The outside balconies.  During our twenty minute intermission Chloé and I took a stroll here with our glass of champagne to enjoy a warm evening at the Opéra Garnier....my life is so hard, no?

I met Chloé at 7 pm Tuesday evening in front of the grand staircase to the Opéra.  (Well, I was there at 7, she arrived around 7:25.)  I was dressed to the nines in the fanciest outfit I could find in my wardrobe here in Paris, which in fact, wasn't too fancy.  It was a bit too "spring-y" for this time of year....but it would have to do as I had no other options.  I donned my classic Cole Haan heels and Michael Kors clutch and hoped I would be okay.  I was nonetheless appalled to find people walking into the Opéra in JEANS and Converse.  I was absolutely astonished.  Even if I was on vacation in Paris I am certain I could come up with something better than jeans!  I could tell the French citizens that were in attendance didn't approve either, for they were scoffing at each American walking by so casually...as if it were just another evening.  

As you walk in you are greeted by men dressed in fancy suits, women in evening gowns and of course,  the grand staircase.  Just up above are the balconies where 50 years ago you could stand upon to "see and be seen."  Charles Garnier did an excellent job designing the layout so that a lot of "seeing and being seen" could go on.  There are open spaces, long, beautiful hallways, a balcony that overlooks Place de l'Opéra, and different levels of seating (1,979 to be exact) so as to prioritize your financial status.  It is the inspiration for The Phantom of the Opera and the ceiling painted by Marc Chagall is yet another French artistic stamp on the world.    

The Grand Staircase is made of different colors of marble, towering statues, oversized chandeliers, and balconies that pour out over the foyer.  

Entrance to orchestra seating.

Ceiling of the Grand Staircase

The beautiful Grand Foyer/reception hall.  Belongs in Versailles.  

Yes, that's me.  Can't you just imagine women prancing around in big, beautiful dresses....their biggest worry being what kind of champagne to drink that night? 

The clock in the grand hallway. 

The Opéra was inaugurated on 1875 with a performance and lavish gala to follow.  Garnier also designed the grand chandelier that is hanging from the ceiling.  It cost 30,000 francs and weighs a total of 7 tons.  In 1896, a piece fell from the chandelier onto a member of the audience causing their death...which then inspired the scene from The Phantom of the Opera.  It originally caused problems for 4th and 5th floor balcony audience members, but the chandelier has since been raised to avoid controversy.  

The ceiling was painted by Marc Chagall and completed in 1963.  Some objected having a Russian Jew paint the ceiling of such a recognized symbol of French history, some disliked his modernism.  His response to a newspaper article written about him (about the French),

 "They really had it in for me... It is amazing the way the French resent foreigners. You live here most of your life. You become a naturalized French citizen... work for nothing decorating their cathedrals, and still they despise you. You are not one of them."

As a foreigner myself I thought this to be quite funny, and I can't say I find it completely false either!  The canvas Chagall painted took 440 pounds of paint and was created in 5 sections.  The paintings represent the works of Mozart, Wagner, Berlioz, Ravel, Tchaikovsky and other composers and dancers.  We were sitting down in the orchestra sections so I couldn't get a good photo of the entire spectrum of things.  Also, they are strict in their "no photo" policy so it was difficult to do it without someone catching me!  

Isn't the chandelier magnificent?  Good thing it didn't fall on my head...I would hate to cause Phantom of the Opera, Part 2.

It is so beautiful and colorful.  It's absolutely breathtaking.  

Taken from the blog, A Voyage Abroad, I can't seem to have good luck getting in during the days...but this is what it looks like from the stage.  

Amazingly, the Opéra is designed so that the flow of people in an out passes with ease.  People can socialize on different levels of the auditorium, without having to stray far away from your seat.  Rich red velvet on the seat coverings, bright, sparkling chandeliers, and gold leaf on every nook and cranny makes for an opulent setting for a night at the Opéra.  It's sumptuous, moving, and inspiring....no wonder so many artists have passed through its doors.  

The Opéra Garnier has been inspiration for many buildings around the world, including several museums in Poland, the opera house in Ukraine, theaters in Brazil, and even the Thomas Jefferson Building at the Library of Congress in Washington, D.C...which I vaguely remember.  

Oh yea...the ballet?  ha!  The ballet was wonderful.  I was so in awe of the ceiling and my surroundings that if they hadn't turned off the lights for the performance, I might not have even cared.  The first act was a more classical ballet and the second certainly more modern.  The choreographers were Jerome Robbins and Mats Ek.  The first, Dances at a Gathering, was simple and wistful.  It was performed with a piano accompaniment, to which 18 of Chopin's most colorful compositions were chosen.  The sky blue background created a flowery contrast with their chiffon costumes of pink, purple, and green.  Although it was an absolutely beautiful ballet, I found my mind wandering at times onto other things....like my dancing days.  I knew I would never be a prima ballerina....but I always did enjoy dance.  Wonder why I quit?  

The second, Apartment, was much more modern and began with a woman dancing around what looked like a toilet bowl.  It was a ballet about the difference phases of life, human interaction, and self realization.  Full of life and changing paces, Flashquartet kept the audience on their feet with their modern use of electrical sounds.  A mix between Save the Last Dance and Swan Lake.  

You have no idea how satisfying it was to come home and completely check off "Opéra Garnier" from my Paris Bucket List.  A night to be remembered that is for certain...one I will never forget.  I've had so many of those while in France....I'm scared if I come home they will stop.  I never ever want nights like these to stop....