2.......1?

Well, it's my birthday.  I am in complete denial that I'm turning 25, and am really just pretending I'm turning 21 again.  Although if I was turning 21 again, I wouldn't be in France....and wouldn't have spent these last 2 life changing years in Paris.  So, since I get to celebrate in Paris, I suppose that 25 will have to do!  This time last year Ashleigh and I were bouncing around Disneyland with Cinderella and Peter Pan...and I couldn't have been a happier girl.  I had just decided to stay another year in Paris, and I was on an all time high.  I can't say that this year I have the same sentiments...as my second year here is coming to a close, but I am approaching my birthday with a positive spin with lunch on the Champ de Mars in front of la Tour Eiffel, then celebrating this evening with Chloé, Franck, and the kids with dinner at La Maison Mère.  I have a pile of cards on my table ready and waiting for me to open them from loved ones around the world, and a sweet present my dad and Beverly thought to send ages ago.  (It's difficult having a gift lying around and not opening it!)

Thankful for all of you who are thinking of me today....enough to check the blog.  25 will be another year of new beginnings....so really.... how bad can that be???  You all know I love a good adventure!!!!!!!

Cheers!

Roland-Garros

Tuesday morning I donned my cutest spring dress and my floppy hat and made sure to put sunscreen on my cheeks.  I wasn't worried about my lack of knowledge of tennis, but had my sights set more on how cute I would look and how evenly I would tan sitting in the stadium.  Laura and I had tickets to Court Number 1 of the Roland-Garros tennis tournament...more commonly known back home as the French Open.  Court Number 1 is the third largest of the stadiums on the property.  Roland-Garros is the premier clay court tennis tournament in the world.  It is perhaps one of the largest events in tennis in the world, the others being the Australian Open, the US Open, and Wimbledon.  It is also the most watched French sporting event in the world.

Door to the museum at the stadium.

I have played tennis in the past...but not with anyone serious or for any serious reason.  I am known for lobbing the ball over the fence, and have absolutely no control...despite my decent serve.  I remember playing with my mom and Pat a few years back on the courts at Lawrence County High School and distinctly remember mom telling me, "Maggie....it's not softball.  You do not have to hit it over the fence."  Then, my giggle box would get turned over and we all know its downhill from there.....

Court Suzanne Lenglen

Fans were buzzing about the property scanning scoreboard screens and checking tickets to be sure they were in the right place.  The Perrier sponsored tournament was no joke...and everyone was taking their job very seriously.  We bought the daily Roland-Garros "newspaper" so we could check schedules and times of who was playing.  Nadal, Serena Williams, and Sharapova were all playing that day, but we didn't shell out enough bucks to be included in the important courts.  Our first match was against a dorky American guy with white tennis shoes and a baseball cap, Sam Querrey, and a bronzed Serbian babe, Janko Tipsarevic.  It lasted at least 2 hours..can't remember the actual duration.  The Serb won, and Querrey was utterly disappointed .  What can ya do??  Afterwards, we got up to refill our water bottles and have a walk around...and of course, revisit les toilettes.  People were scuttling to every bit of shade they could find as the sun was beating down at a rapid pace.  The tops of my knees were already burned to a crisp, and I could feel my right shoulder getting pretty toasty.  My floppy hat kept my face from getting any sun at all, which was the best decision I had that day!  I put on my cardigan to guard my shoulders and arms...despite the 80 degree temperatures.

Sam Querrey, USA

Janko Tipsarevic, Serbia

Inside Court No. 1

Watching the ball go back and forth and back and forth all day long on those red clay courts wasn't the most exciting thing in the world, but it was very cool to be a part of a big tournament like that.  Laura and I discussed several times how strange it must be to have your entire career linger on one game, one point, one hit...or one miss.  Talk about a nail biter.  

We also discussed how focused the line judges must be, and the ball boys and girls.  I would probably be dozing off thinking about what to cook for dinner that night or debating whether or not I turned my hair straightener off that morning.  Do you think the umpire gets rehired at every tournament?  Does he speak every language?  Does he get paid a decent salary?  How do they decide who is qualified to be a line judge?  Where's that music coming from?  Did I pack anything to eat?  Wish I could crawl into that refrigerated towel box.  Why are people so rude to get up and walk about during play?  Oh man, that old guy fainted at the top of the stairs.  Does this shirt show sweat?  My feet hurt.  Do the ball girls and boys get paid?  How much do you think his 14 foot camera lens costs?  

That is why we wouldn't make good line judges.   

We watched the ball go back and forth a few more times but this time, it was the women playing.  Native French woman Pauline Parmentier versus Polish Urszula Radwanska.  The women are much sneakier and the game is a lot more interesting to watch as they tend to use the entire court instead of just the baseline like the men.  A boisterous spectateur was giving it his all for the French favorite but despite his attempts, Radwanska won in the end.  I went off to work, as a good au pair always does, and Laura stayed until about 8 or so that evening.  (She's a little bit more hard core than I am...can you tell?  When she asked me if I wanted to go it was more of a ..."Sure, why not?" answer than say....if she had asked me to go to a Jimmy Buffett concert.  She then would have gotten a, "Heck yeaaaa!")

Cutest uniforms for ticket takers! Loved their shoes and their hats!

Parmentier and Radwanska

Pauline Parmentier, France

Desperate much?

I'm glad we went, and it was much more interesting to be a part of it in person versus just watching it on television.  Perhaps I am a bit more knowledgeable in the world of tennis, and I can now 100% tell you that in France instead of 15-Love they do not say "15-Amour" it is just 15-0.  Stupid question?  Or legitimate?  Laura and I thought it was pretty legit.  

Yet another reason why we should just remain innocent bystanders.  

Rue de Courcelles

One of my favorite things about Paris is walking home on a warm, sunny evening down rue de Courcelles...especially on a weekend or a jour férié, when there are little to no people bopping about.  Being in such a wealthy neighborhood, the streets are calm and I occasionally pass a family on trotinettes or an old couple out for an evening stroll with their golden retriever.  Sometimes I complain that my street is so residential and that the supermarkets and boulangeries are never open on a Sunday or bank holiday.  In spite of that, I really appreciate it.  I caught myself today strolling along, peeking into people's balconies, window shopping, admiring the stunning architecture and how it contrasts with the newly blooming cherry trees and green leafy arbres.  For such a main road in Paris, the quiet and still of the street is reassuring and peaceful.  

It's safe and it's my home.  

La Vallée Village

Yesterday was filled with lots of time in the park under the warm, sunny rays of le soleil.  We went first to have some tea at the mosque, then hopped over to the Jardin des Plantes for a little sunbathing.  Although, my English friends slathered on the sunscreen so no sun was getting through that layer of cream.  I probably should have followed, but I just love have that first sun kissed look of summer.  I have been so pasty white (almost blue) this summer that any time in the sun I am going to take advantage of.  I know I should be better about sunscreen....but I believe I follow suit of my mother and her love of the sun.  

It was later on in the afternoon when we went to Chipotle to have dinner, and met up later on that evening at the Champ de Mars.  The Champ de Mars was as packed as I've ever seen it!  There was hardly a place for 4 girls to sit!! We ended up choosing a bit on the side so that Alison (who was coming later) could easily find us.  

This was a little bit later on into the night....

I know you've seen a thousand photos....you can only imagine how packed full my iPhoto is of pictures of la Tour Eiffel.  

Today we took a short trip outside of Paris to La Vallée Village, the "chic" outlet shopping just out near Disneyland Paris.  We were able to take the taxi shuttle service for free on Sundays (which turned out to be our luck) driven by well dressed French men in cleanly pressed suits.  We were dropped off at the entrance to the winding outdoor stores, not unlike the stores at Silver Sands in Destin.  It was unlike the Silver Sands in the fact that the stores consisted of Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni, Longchamp, Valentino, Jimmy Choo, and Givenchy.  Very excellent discounts from their original prices...but still clearly out of our price range! 

The property was lovely, and felt like its own little city out in Val d'Europe.  There were little to no cars running about, and the apartment buildings looked extremely new.  With the abundant sunshine, we sat listening to the fountain nearby and closed our eyes and pretended we were in the south of France.  

Afternoon pick-me-up.  Always so perfect.  Top to bottom: grapefruit, exotic mango, black cherry.  To the side is chocolate and pepper.  

After our afternoon of shopping, or lack thereof, we spent the evening in a small park near Flora's new mansion of a house.  Her new host families' house spans 4 or 5 stories and sits in the middle of a swanky part of town in the 16th.  

The most perfectly blue sky at the park today!  

Tomorrow is a holiday here (yes, another MAY holiday...we have seriously had about 10 this month) and I am working for a bit in the morning and then we are headed out to the Bois de Vincennes for a cheeky bike ride around the park.  Hoping the sun holds out for the rest of my time here!  It's amazing how it changes the way I feel and the mood I'm in!  

Tuesday, Laura and I are going to Roland-Garros, or the French Open for one of the qualifying rounds.  We bought tickets ages ago, and although I know little about tennis I'm excited to be a part of something that I will more than likely never have the chance to do again!  Hope everyone has an excellent Memorial Day!  

Chipotle, Paris

Okay, so I know it sounds silly, but I have been waiting for the opening of Chipotle Paris for like 6 months now.  It was suppose to be open in February, but the doors have forever been closed and the rumor going around is that they couldn't find a supplier for some of their foods here in France, and also that they decided last minute to redesign some of the seating space.  Who knows if any of that is true.....

Either way, I am ecstatic that Chipotle has opened.  I heard they were giving away free burritos on Thursday, the 24th for their grand opening.  Unfortunately, I couldn't be in attendance.  I convinced the girls today that we should go give it a try.  The staff was very friendly, spoke both English and French, and the manager was bopping around everywhere making sure things were running smoothly.  It was very American...which was a nice change.  Everyone greeted us with smiles on their faces and burritos were stuffed with happiness.  I started talking to the manager/owner as soon as he realized I was American.  I told him how excited I was for them to have opened here...finally!  He gave me my burrito for free, which was super nice...all my European friends swear that's an American thing.  It certainly is never done here in France....even for crappy service or bad food.  I can tell you this...his kind words, friendly service, offering to comp my meal, and attention to detail certainly make me want to keep coming back.  

Tabasco sauce was found on every table, sustainable and recyclable products were abundant, and the Chipotle promise of using only fresh ingredients was evident in the taste of the burrito.  The seating area upstairs was open and airy, and in very American fashion the tables weren't all crammed up on top of each other-which I rather enjoyed.  The salsa's were a bit toned down as to allow for the lighter palate of the French tongue...they are not so keen on super spicy foods.  I got the medium salsa and it was perfect, with just the right amount of kick.  The portion sizes - although still huge, were a tad smaller than the ones we get in the States I believe.  

Smack dab on a busy corner of Grand Boulevards....a very Americanized corner of town if you will.  McDonald's, Starbucks, Chipotle, Hard Rock Café and Subway all within 200 feet of each other.  They seem to have done their research.  

Chicken burrito:  cilantro-lime rice, chicken, black beans, sour cream, cheese, and medium salsa.  

I suggest that anyone in Paris at least go check it out...it has certainly been popular with all the American ex-pats!

Sunny, warm weather, free burrito, drinks this evening on the Champ de Mars, few extra bucks from my school deposited into my bank account yesterday, clean sheets, and a new jar of crunchy Speculoos sitting on my counter..... It's a good day!

Chipotle Paris

20 Boulevard Montmartre

75009, Paris

Metro: Richelieu-Drouot

Evenings On The Seine

Thursday evening we went to share a bottle of wine down by the Seine because the weather has been out of this world beautiful.  75-80 and sunny...and we are taking full advantage!  

On the RER...too bad the window wasn't too clean...

The highlight of the evening?  This awesome party band boat that was riding down the Seine playing amazing music!  We were wondering where the music was coming from and as it got closer and closer we realized it was this boat!  What an amazing idea!  They had a saxophone, flute, bass, trombone...the works.  It looked just like a group of friends that got together and organized it....and its too bad they were on a boat because I would have totally given them money.  

Laura and I went to Le Marais yesterday for a sandwich.  Oh, and of course, some baklava.  

Challah bread so perfect it looks fake.  

As always, delicious.  Cucumber, pastrami, tomato, red pepper spread, pickles, and a bit of whole grain mustard on an onion poppy seed bagel bread.  Mmmm...

We then sat outside of Hotel de Ville on the smallest patch of grass ever to people watch and be in the sun.   Strange, yet entertaining!  

Meeting at our new hangout today, the Mosque, for some sweet mint tea then over to the Jardin des Plantes for some soaking up of the sun!  And lots of it!  

An Afternoon at Madeleine..

We've been spending quite a bit of time jumping back and forth between Esther-Raphaella's house and ours lately....which is great when Marie-Césare has gone to play there, but exhausting when they are with me.  They enjoy playing together, but play/bath/dinner is just enough to make me want to come up with some everyday boundaries for when and where.  It did, however, work out in my favor on Wednesday afternoon.

Samford University's A Cappella choir is doing a brief tour of Europe and I was fortunate enough to have an insider's view into their schedule for the trip.  They were singing Wednesday afternoon at 4 pm at Église de la Madeleine, and although I arrived late...I was able to sneak a spot up front.  Their director, Philip Copeland, was in my Papaw's choir (a few) years ago.  My grandmother says it best when she told me, "He thinks your grandfather hung the moon."  I mean, really.....who doesn't think that Ken Miller hung the moon?  I certainly do.  And I know my mom does.

Their hauntingly beautiful voices echoed through the old church as everyone stopped to hold their breath at the end of every song.  The whispered acoustics almost made your ears tingle as every note was hit with rich perfection.  

They sang about 15 songs... some English, some not.  I went and introduced myself to Mr. Copeland after the concert and I believe he was surprised that word actually got through and that I actually showed up.  People were coming up to him from all countries and using their best English in telling him that it was "magnifique, très belle, wonderful" which I can only assume he hears all the time.  I wished them well for the continuation of their journey through Europe and said goodbye.  Only reiterating the fact that it is such a small world.  

Dimanche

Since we spent Saturday night haunting museums and such, we got a bit of a late start on Sunday at the 11:00 service at the American Church of Paris.  I had been before, and prefer Hillsong for its music...but anyone that's related to me knows how much I love a good, "Praise God, For Whom All Blessings Flow" during the service.  When I was 15 or 16 we had a preacher at my church in Lawrenceburg who decided he would take that out of the service and I have never been so upset about anything in my life.  Okay, I suppose now that has changed but I was truly heartbroken and would talk every Sunday about how it needed to be put back into the service.  He left soon after (probably because he took that song from me) and the song was put back into its rightful place in the service.

Anywho, the service was beautiful and traditional as always, and the Tiffany & Co. designed stained glass windows weren't so bad to look at either.  Yes, that's right, a few of the panels of stained glass in the church are designed by the famed Tiffany & Co. 

The preacher opened his sermon by talking about his hometown of Mason, Tennessee.  I almost fell out of the pew...I had no idea they were from Tennessee.  Mason is a stop you see on I-40 between Memphis and Jackson...but who knew people actually lived there? ha!  I met his wife after the service and she was just about as shocked as I was.  It is truly amazing what a small world it is.  They are returning to the States the end of June and she has already sent me an e-mail hoping we can keep in touch.  

She explained this cross they made for a member of their congregation.  It is made from bare tree branches, and origami cranes which symbolize a wish or a hope...such as long life or recovery from illness.  A Japanese member who is a member of the church and skilled in origami suggested the idea.  The woman from the congregation was diagnosed with a serious cancer, and she didn't realize while she was helping make all these paper cranes that it was for her.  They made several small crosses and chains that strung across the church which were then given to her for her home.  

I think its really beautiful...and such a wonderful idea.  That thought only increases 10 fold when you realize the meaning behind it! 

After church we went out to Père Lachaise cemetery for a little stroll with the dead.  The largest cemetery in Paris (110 acres) its good to at least look at the map before you just try and attack the space full-on.  We wound up and down the cobblestone path and past the crematorium and had one purpose for the day: to see the newly refurbish tomb of Oscar Wilde.  

This is the before picture that I took sometime last winter: 

And this is the newly refurbished version:

All nice, new, and untouched.  With a glass case around it so no more kisses from random strangers...but it didn't seem to stop them from kissing the glass.  

We like Fancy Nancy too!

So many things written in so many different languages!  

Sounds weird to say, but Père Lachaise is a hauntingly beautiful place.  

It was on the verge of a thunderstorm (the grey clouds looming above us) so we called it a day.  Little did we know those would be the clouds that lingered for 48 hours straight over Paris.  Chloé is back from China, bringing lots of presents for Marie-Césare including a precious yellow and pink kimono which I believe she halfway expected.

Laying low this week and this weekend...suppose to be 75 and sunny Friday (20% chance it stays that way) but, bring it on!!!!!!

Nuit des Musées 2012

Saturday afternoon was spent wandering the glamorous halls of Le Bon Marché, the ritzy department store at Sèvres-Babylone eyeing sparkly Cartier and colorful Missoni.  We then hopped just across the street to La Grande Épicerie...one of my favorite spots in Paris.  It's where all of my dreams come true.  Unfortunately, as soon as we stepped inside and looked at the prices, I remembered why I don't frequent there anymore.  You can find an array of products from all over the world, each section of the globe having an aisle.  The produce is my most favorite part, as the rainbow array of fruits and vegetables is enough to turn anyone into a brussel sprout lover.  Walk a little further to your right and you practically run into one of the meat counters, slicing up ham of all ages, with all spices, and all thicknesses.  The ready-to-eat counter closely resembles that of Harrod's in London but with a slightly French twist to each dish.  In the back of the store you can find sour cream, cottage cheese, and cheddar cheese...3 dairy products from America that I miss oh so much.  

With the hefty price tag (a basket of beautiful, perfect strawberries 9.95...dragon-tongue green beans 19.95/kilo...and a box of honey nut cheerios 9.65) I ended up with some freshly sundried tomatoes, a loaf of brioche, and a Mr. Goodbar...which was the only thing on the American aisle I thought I could justify to afford (still-1.95).  It's a good thing I wasn't going straight back to my apartment or I would have picked up some yogurt and sour cream without a doubt.  

Saturday evening was also Nuit des Musées here in France.  Many other countries in Europe were also participating, but it wasn't mandatory.  Museums were opening special hours, most started around 7 or 8 and stayed open until midnight or later.  And another perk-they were free!  We started off the evening at the 6:30 opening of the Baccarat museum in the ritzy neighborhood of the 16th.  Baccarat is the prestigious crystal glassware making company located in Baccarat, France.  The museum is in Paris as well as several magasins throughout the city.  The entrance was fancy and we weren't sure what we were in for.  Once being shuffled around and up a beautiful staircase we feasted our eyes on the most beautiful chandelier.

It also slowly spun around....quite impressive.  

This giant chair that was so tempting to sit on.  

We wandered through a room of different crystal glasses and goblets and what-have-you, then onto the crystal gallery.  Our most favorite part of the museum?  The bathroom.  It was all reflecting mirrors and crystals so it was difficult to see where the actual doors were.  The sinks were modern pools located on an island in the middle.  A small bench sat on one end, where Laura found a quick perch.

The bathroom.

We wandered through the rainy evening onto our next museum of choice.  The Grand Palais for a Helmut Newton exhibition.  It is normally 6 euros, and since we were planning to go anyway...tonight seemed like a perfect excuse!  It was a stunning exhibition...perhaps one of my favorite.  Helmut Newton was always known for pushing the edge a little bit, and this spread was no exception.  His erotic-urban photography was featured all over the world, including Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and other various magazines in the US, London, and France.  I can't post my most favorite photo of the expo here for fear of it being a little too risqué, but I'll share with you some other favorites.  

Staircase at the Grand Palais.

Helmut Newton

Helmut Newton

Helmut Newton

The queue outside the Grand Palais.

We arrived at the Cinématheque Française in Bercy just after 9 to head into the Tim Burton exposition. Onlyyyy...the line was practically a mile long.  We got in line immediately and waited our turn.  The line was moving fairly quickly.....until about 10 pm when we made a halt.  We sat there for at least 30 minutes.  The family behind me kept getting closer and closer, even though we weren't moving anywhere...and I almost asked them if they wanted to pass me in line.  French, but not from Paris and a little bit "country"... they were really driving me crazy.  The old couple in front of us kept looking back every time Laura and I would speak, obviously wondering why we were speaking English.  That really pushes my buttons.  I know the older population thinks that everyone living in France should be French and anyone else is just gum on the bottom of your shoe....but its Paris, a thriving metropolitan melting pot for the world where hundreds of languages are spoken and 75% of the population speaks some English anyways!  She kept turning back making it so obvious....I wanted to knock her nose down about 5 inches.

I don't particularly love Tim Burton or his films, my favorite of the lot being Edward Scissorhands, released in 1990.  His films are a little bit too twistedly dark for me...as I prefer more upbeat, happy films.  He is a very talented artist I will say, and this exhibition had over 700 items from his personal collection.

Immediately thought of my best friend Margaret, "large Marge." ha!  

Edward Scissorhands

Edward Scissorhands

Le Pauvre...

Sleepy Hollow

Burton's mind must be spinning with crazy ideas all the time...for the amount and quality of things he has produced has pleased millions over the years.  It was an expo that I'm sure I would have gone to see regardless...I'm just pleased I was able to enter for free.  Even with a frustratingly long queue and annoying people surrounding.  Although nothing will beat the terrible queue I stood in for the Monet exhibition at the Grand Palais winter 2010.  Ohhh man...I will remember that perhaps for the rest of my life!!  And not in a good way!