L'as du Fallafel and Sacre-Coeur

Woke up super early this morning to arrive to a normally fussy Marie-Cesare.  But, to my surprise, her Padi and Didou were going to pick her up from art school and take her for the afternoon.  Wooo hoo!!! You can imagine my excitement!  I had to run a couple of errands for Chloe and then I had the afternoon off until 4:30.  I decided to go to Le Marais.  I have just heard very good things about the area, not to mention my dear friend Taylor has suggested (more like raved about) this place called L'as du Fallafel that I have been dying to try out.  

Le Marais is Paris' Jewish neighborhood...and most everyone speaks a little English.  I set out to find this place only after "Googling" it and all I know is it has a can't-miss green building front.  Woah. And a huge line out front!! It was snowing, raining, and 29 degrees today and there was a line 10 people long at 11:30am (a very early lunch for Parisians). I sat and watched the people outside for a minute and listened to what they ordered.  I did also happen to notice that a very similar place just across the street had no one in line and a heaping pile of falafel's to sell. But, since I came to try out this so-called delicious falafel sandwich Taylor told me about....I had no choice!  L'as du Fallafel has a man out front taking your money in line and in turn giving you a piece of paper with your order on it.  I ordered a falafel "sandwich" and a coke.  The line didn't take long, only about 7 minutes.  As I approached the outdoor window, I handed the cook my order.  "Do you want it spicy?" he asked.  "I want it however you would make yours!" I told him.  Might as well do it like the locals.  Into a pita he piled salted cucumbers, pickled red cabbage, roasted eggplant, tomatoes, creamy hummus, and of course the ever so warm and crisp falafel.  He handed me a fork and a napkin....I quickly turned to ask for more napkins.  

I took the first bite and hummus and harissa dripped down my chin onto my scarf and all over my hand.  The falafels were warm, the pita soft, and the crunch of the cucumber and cabbage was delightful.  It was SO incredibly good.  In fact, towards the end of my lunch one of my last falafels rolled out of the pita and onto the sidewalk beneath me.  I actually for a moment considered the 5 second rule and picking it up off the sidewalk and putting it back in my pita.  Yes, it was THAT delicious.  (Looking back now I of course am very glad I didn't subject myself to bazillions of dirty germs in one bite.)  The best thing I've eaten in Paris by a long shot.  In fact, next to my dinner at Daniel Boulud's restaurant in New York, my granny's chicken and dumplings (and poppyseed cake), Pat's fabulous spaghetti, Bev's yummy cornbread, and my mom's paella....this comes in a very close 6th or 7th place.  I absolutely cannot wait to go back.  Sometimes Taylor doesn't have the brightest ideas (love you Taylor!) but this was definitely one of his more promising moments! ;)  

Left Le Marais and headed back to the 9th.  I still had a couple of hours to kill, but didn't want to get too far away just in case Padi and Didou decided to leave early.  I started wandering up the hill to Montmartre in the snow just taking my time.  About 400 stairs later....I reached the top!  I saw the Sacre-Coeur beyond the treetops so of course I ventured further.  This is the "artsy" center of Montmartre...although most of Paris' artistic talent has moved to other districts...few still remain on cold, dreary days.  

Just on the right I found the road to the Sacre-Coeur!  I love wandering...you find the greatest things.  It was absolutely beautiful!  I know I say that a lot but it sincerely was.  Outside was a sign that said for 125 years, someone has been praying day and night here.  Isn't that such an incredible thought?  It's hard to fathom...125 years of nonstop prayer.  I went in and despite the tourists and school groups I immediately felt a sense of gratification and thanksgiving.  I sat there for the better part of an hour just praying and admiring everything about that beautiful place.  You can't take pictures inside...and since I am not a rule breaker, I didn't.  Besides...I think that it is one of those places you have to go and witness for yourself.  The stained glass windows in deep red and bright blue...the hand carved wooden pews, the stunning architecture, and the thousands of candles lit in prayer for one another.  The silence.  

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When I came back outside there was a blanket of snow on everything!  Unfortunately I had worn my Merrell's which are great for all day comfort, bad for avoiding slippery spots.  The clouds and snow in my photos make the city seem still and silent, but I can't wait to come back when it's green and pretty!  This is what they call the "Furniculaire de Montmartre."  If you don't want to walk up 400 stairs you can just pay to ride this baby.  It's very convenient and if I had only known about it....this probably would have been my choice.  

Descended back into the crazy city and went home to wait on Marie-Cesare.  I talked with her grand-parents about Provence and it made me really excited to go!  Didou wants to cook with me and show me around the countryside which sounds great to me!  Probably all the things she would love to do with Chloe but with Chloe's job she just doesn't have the time.  And, Didou actually teaches me things in French when I don't know what it is which is so incredibly helpful!  Marie-Cesare didn't get a nap so she was extra awful this evening, especially when it came time to wash her hair.  But....since they don't have TV, and on a normal day we don't watch movies, on Wednesdays I don't feel guilty about popping in a Disney movie to make her be quiet!  

An apple and peanut butter for dinner...still full from my delicious lunch!!